22.06 - Day 3 - Santiago, CHL

Santiago, Chile

Tuesday 22nd June 2010

A warmer day awaits us and we make for the bottom of the funicular for Cerro San Cristobal atop of which the white Virgin Mary watches over Santiago. It seems those who make the visit to Chile in the Off Season are expected to be more hardy: the funicular is closed leaving us with a 45 minute steep walk to the top. Majestic views over the city with the ever present Andes in the background.

Back in the city Krish relents to my pestering and we visit a Paradiso Bakery. Whilst the event was unremarkable – tasty snack, language issues (how was I to guess they ask me if I want extra sugar on top of my sugar coated Berlin Crema?), it was unusual to be approached by three 14 year old girls who, it transpired, believed Krish and I were members of a rock band of whom they had stickers adorning their satchels. Our stumbling protestations may have only served to further encourage them.

The Berlin Crema was sustenance for a trip round the Museo Chileno de Arte PreColombino. In summary, a bit dry and not overly cohesive in story. The museum not the doughnut. Though plus marks for the English descriptions. Back to our old haunt Mercado Central, though it being a week day smaller crowds means pushy waiters outside every restaurant more desperate for business. We were only slightly perturbed by the size of one of the tunas on display – wider and taller than me.

Afternoon World Cup game back at the hostel (Argentina vs Greece, Group Stage, 2-0) before setting out to track down the national drink of Pisco Sour. 

We get side-tracked by the opportunity for some sunset photos atop Cerro Santa Lucio – mercifully not as high as our morning climb. Charles Darwin had trod the same path in 1834. Coincidentally he’d also been to the top of Mount Wellington in Hobart on his travels as had I just over a week prior. Fiery red skies become even more murderous as we descend so Krish drags me back up for one more picture. 

My thighs and calves let me know the slog we’ve put in today – we reward ourselves with a Mojito at nearby Café Utopia, both of us choking on the strength of the alcohol. This is followed by two Pisco Sours elegantly if a little effeminately in champagne flutes.

By now I’m asleep on my feet and after a quick empanada and another Pisco Sour this time out of a wine glass at the nautically themed Café Berri we escape the attentions of Francois (overly friendly French kid out in Santiago on an internship) and slope off to bed.