28.06 - Day 9 - Cusco to Macchu Pichu (II), PER

Cusco to Machu Picchu, Peru

Monday 28th June 2010

Wake up to the sound of rain on the tent roof. Feeling a bit better but still need more pills and more of Freddy’s local concoction. We leave camp knowing the hardest and longest part of the trek awaits. Three to four hours up and up with a 4,600m peak our target. All three of us in ponchos – Krish’s a stylish number with blue polka dots… Rain focuses the mind so less of taking in the view and more of trying to get the job done.

As the ascent shows no sign of abating the rest stops become more frequent; as we’re nearing the summit we’re stopping every 5/10 minutes. Finally at the top and there’s handshakes all round – very British.  A ten minute break affords me the opportunity to retract tortoise like into my poncho and fall asleep, twice. 

The mist clears and we can make out the edges of Lake Arruycochi in the valley beneath us. We’d managed the climb in three hours, but going downhill we really accelerate, especially with the promise of a tent and hot lunch waiting for us. 

At the lunch site I fall asleep again for an hour before the food arrives.

The upset stomach doesn’t encourage me to eat much and equally the pounding rain doesn’t encourage us for the afternoon’s trek. We’re offered one or three hours walking downhill by Freddy. The idea of not walking the following day appeals and we’d have been waiting for the tents to arrive anyway. We opt for the three hour trek. This proves to be an inspired move as the following day we see another group of trekkers come down who tell us it hasn’t stopped raining on them for 36 hours. For us, not long after lunch as we drop down into the next valley the rain stops and the sun even hints at breaking out.

We arrive at another garden just outside San Isidro where we’re even allowed access to the previously unknown luxury of a toilet. Its all well and good being at one with nature but personally a flushing toilet wins every day of the week. 

Only a slight headache remains and of course the ever present tiredness but Krish keeps me from napping in between hot chocolate and dinner. Soup is the usual starter but mains is stuffed peppers, linguine pasta with hot salsa sauce and even a margarita pizza. 

Quite how all that had been cooked using only one portable gas stove we’re not quite sure – but we are certainly impressed. Dinner is capped off with some warm sangria and post-dinner chat with Freddy.

On… The Crew

Freddy, guide – Enthusiastic all the time. Loves the treks and their sanctity. But also driven, business minded – set up own trekking company asking Krish and I for help. Keen to improve upon his amazing English – “I have one question…” start a lot of his sentences when trying to learn a new word or phrase. Thoughtful when I’m ill – calling out at 2am when Krish got up to go to the toilet – asking if Senor Matt is ok. Knows many of the locals we bump into on our way. Very thorough knowledge of the fauna, flora and Machu Picchu. “You have another question maybe…?” said as a statement rather than a question at any his Q&A sessions.

Bicente, horseman – seems to be the butt of all gags, especially when conversation turned to Krish being single. Aged 25 but weathered face suggests 35. His family have 10 horses for which we use three on the trek. He holds a very straight face so language barrier makes it hard to know if he’s being funny or serious. Plays warm-up football holding a walking stick. Wears local headwear with many different colours streaming from the top – identifying his home village.

Hueblo, chef – aged 22, been cooking on treks since 17. Wears Brasil shirt. Great chef, even more so considering equipment and conditions. Unassuming, quiet.

Sanimar, chef’s assistant – aged 18. Girlfriend of Hueblo. Even quieter and shier than Hueblo. Doesn’t usually come on treks, just really accompanying her boyfriend.