13.07 - Day 24 - Buenos Aires, ARG

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tuesday 13th July 2010

First up a cheerful stroll around Recoletta Cemetery , famed in its own right for its rich and splendorous , if a little creepy mausoleums, but also for being the resting place of Eva Peron. 

From there we hunt down Museo Bellas Artes but upon entering realise its not a museum at all (the real thing is across the road)  but a university – not to worry, we do a lap of the building anyway feeling momentarily 19 again.

Avenue Alvear next on our morning walk, containing shops of global repute but thatare all too familiar to us (from the outside not the inside) – the buildings themselves though are spectacular town houses and mansions. 

The double hit of both our guidebooks recommend Café Clasica y Moderna and it doesn’t disappoint. Three courses for 36 Argentinean Pesos (£5.90) at a joint way above our station – our hoodies look somewhat out of place amongst the ladies-that-lunch and business meetings taking place. As an elderly gentleman plays the grand piano we watch the city folk outside go about their daily routines. Overall the best meal yet.

Despite the three courses including “postres” (dessert) there’s always room for ice-cream so we venture to Cadore a few blocks away. Chocolate Amargo and Frambeusa my picks. All good; very smooth. 

After a failed weary search for Maradona shirts (only Coq Sportif, 1986 will do for Krish) we pop back to Chillhouse. Having walked around Palermo the day before and liking what we saw we go back for some evening drinks. Firstly at a grimy American style bar (all cocktails still falling short of Café Utopia, Santiago) then a place if unsure if it’s a smart restaurant or everyday café; conflicting wine glasses, black and white décor with empanadas and half price drinks. The perfect combo for us then.

Following the success of Antoine’s recommendation for the previous night, tonight we follow another suggestion, taxiing to Le Catedral from some local Tango. Well, watching anyway. 

In an under lit, oversized vault of a room we settle back with cheap litres of Quilmes and listen to and watch the Tango lesson and free for all. This is what you expect from South America and Argentina in particular. 

Mostly locals, enjoying themselves, tangoing as the mood takes them in a relaxed oh-so-cool environment. 

It runs every Tuesday 9pm-2am and is excellent. We depart around 12:30am thoroughly satisfied with the whole experience.