Mon 21st Jun '21 - Day 10

Point Quobba to Coral Bay

 

Surprised by unexpected rain overnight and blustery conditions in the morning rocking the van a little. A few of our neighbours had left by the time we opened the curtains at 7am, presumable to escape the wind. That said, this remote camp spot, albeit with no facilities did feel like we were closer to our own escape. We added it to the worth-the-detour list for the journey back South again in a few weeks time.

At the way out we stopped again at the blowholes, a few hundred metres up the road before taking the same road we’d come in on back the 50km to the freeway. 2 ¼ hours for the first leg, Seb again asleep for a large chunk.

Refuel at the least impressive of the service stations so far – Miniyla Bridge Roadhouse – Morning tea for the kids then onwards for the final hour North, then South West off the freeway the last 12km to down into Coral Bay. As the shrubs get shorter we notice many individual birds of prey soaring above the shrubland on the lookout for lunch. Similarly to viewing the fish the day prior, we remember none of the names of species which seems a shame.

As we drop down to Coral Bay we’re reminded why we give Seb travel sickness tablets for longer journeys when his mandarins and popcorn reappear in his lap. The last few kilometres I spend sitting backwards holding a pan for him in case more food appears. Like a little trooper, as soon as he’s finished being sick he asks for his unfinished popcorn back.

Coral Bay is a one street town along the cover with 3 camp sites, a bar, newsagent, small grocery store and ticket booking shops for cruises into the bat or 4WD Quad Bikes on the sand. We’re booked for one night at Ningaloo Caravan Park which is packed with caravans, campervans a smattering of tents. I imagine in non-Covid times there are ore tents from international backpackers and fewer of the local WA nomads.

As per normal, not long after reversing into our allocated new spot, having lunch, we then head out again to explore/hit the beach. This time it was unnecessary to drive as it takes a little longer to walk from our campsite to the car park at the end of the main road. It’s warm but still windy so with swimsuits on, noodles, towels and snorkels in hand we walk on the short boardwalk to the beach and around the headland where supposedly the best snorkelling is.

There is a picturesque tri colour sea; a platform of very shallow water 10m wide, trimmed by another 10m of turquoise water after which the sand really drops away which turns the sea in to a darker expanse of blue. Far out to sea you can clearly see large waves crashing on to the outer reef which is then part of what makes this area great for snorkelling because of the calmer inland protected water. But the reef doesn’t stop the wind which around the headland is strong enough that no one is sitting on this part of the beach. We beat a hasty retreat back round to the bay and hurry to ready ourselves, masks, noodles for the kids as Seb makes a beeline for the water throwing himself in headfirst repeatedly.

With the breeze its almost warmer in the water than out and with Seb on the noodle I pull him along pointing out fish and coral beneath the surface. The fish he is very excited about, the coral is take-it-or-leave-it. It’s not pristine coral but given the access metres off the beach its remarkable. Sienna and Kate hen have a turn before Kate and I each have a solo swim whilst the others huddle in the van, Kate with a tea and myself with a beer – I’ve been sampling WA’s breweries each day. Seb and I walk back to the campsite whilst Kate and Sienna drive, the boys investigating the shops and bakery.

Only now do we reveal to the kids there is a giant inflatable pillow 15m x 5m arching out of a giant sandpit at the campsite. As the sun sets I cook burgers in the van (which can still be smelt in the van the following morning) and after the kids are in bed, Kate and I spend an hour planning out our remaining nights now we’ve almost sampled the entire length of our journey.