Thu 8th Jul '21 - Day 27

Fremantle

 

Inclement weather due today although the morning is supposed to be a little drier, so we decide to visit Rottnest Island with a rough plan to hire bikes and if that fails then spend a couple of hours searching for quokkas – which Sienna is very excited about. We buy ferry tickets online the night before ($59 for the ferry, another $40 as an island admin fee).

It’s a 15-minute walk to the B Shed ferry terminal where both ferry companies depart from. The older sheds either side are surrounded by metal fencing as they go under refurbishment. On the walk we’re careful to avoid the puddles littering the way and more importantly stop Seb jumping in them. The ferry departs promptly, barely 10% full despite it being school holidays – Rottnest Island known for its beaches and bays perhaps holding less of an appeal for the locals who have it on their doorstep year-round.

On the 35-minute journey the sea generates some swell – a few kids inside with us run out to the outer deck to be sick. Kate is also feeling a little unsteady by the end. Seb, who was the most at risk, stands in between a row of seats and the window watching the waves whilst we weave between a flotilla of tankers in varying shapes and sizes waiting offshore to be called in to the port. A sharp shower suddenly reduces visibility but thankfully passes by the time we arrive in Thomson Bay on Rottnest Bay.

We walk 10 minutes to find the bike hire shop passing a few of the native quokkas which Sienna & Seb are thrilled to see – Sienna telling any staff member in the bike shop. We get two bikes, one with a wheel trailer to put Seb in and the back half of a child bike attached to the back of the other adult bike for Sienna.

With map in hand we set off around the South side stopping at Parker Point for morning tea and to a pristine beach with no one on it and single moored boat, one man snorkelling around it. At that point another brief shower has us hiding under a tree.

Contrary to expectations the sun emerges in between the fast-moving clouds. Kate and I had previously cycled round the island, but now, a few years later with an extra half bike plus child on the back plus provisions, with the wind, it’s a lot harder than we remember. The kids enjoy the racing between the bikes though, especially as passengers.

We decide to plough on for the full lap, stopping at Stark Bay and for a rest break and then at Geordie Bay for some early lunch bought from the bakery at Thomson Bay before setting off. We perch on some rocks overlooking another spot where Kate and I had previously snorkelled and are closely watched by a few confident blackbirds.

Back at Thomson Bay awaiting at 2pm ferry back, we drop off the bikes and reward our exertions with ice creams, after which Sienna and Seb seek out a few more quokkas to pose with.

The ferry ride back is a lot smoother than the outward trip and so feeling we should continue our winning streak I go with Sienna across Fremantle to the Fremantle Prison for a tour, whilst Seb and Kate head back to the apartment and, most likely, for a nap.

Tours run regularly at this popular tourist attraction. I think Ash the man who ran the gorge tour at Yardie Creek would fit in well with this crowd of tour guides who mix history, harsh conditions with dad jokes. Some of it quickly becomes a little too much for Sienna so she and I drift in and out of the tour around the impressive buildings. 

We walk through and learn about the inmates and how recently it was still being used. The seemingly over-thick walls contain cells long lived in by certain criminals who have spent the time adorning the walls with paintings and other artefacts. In one row of cells they have set up how the cells have changed over the decades of use (and rule changes).

With fixed accommodation, we seek out online a babysitting service so at 6pm Kavesha arrives from Cherished Cherubs to look after the kids allowing Kate and I to head out for a few hours for dinner and drinks. 

Our pre-dinner cocktail and beer is on the roof top of The National Hotel, followed by tasting plate dinner at Strange Company, as recommended to us by a friend Wayne. For a night cap we have a wine and beer at Mr Chapple. 3 good venues, each different, dare I say trendy, each popular with locals help add a degree of sophistication not readily available with kids in tow in the campervan.