06.02 Day 22 Chiang Rai

Day 22 - Tue 6th Feb - Chiang Rai

A sleep in until 8am after the bus journey yesterday despite the hard mattresses. Also noticeable that it was the first night in Thailand where we didn’t have to leave the aircon on all night, as the temperature ‘dipped’ to 15 degrees. 

The promise of breakfast on level 2 - which is actually 1st floor for Brits and Aussies - delivers thick toast, jam and butter. C’est tout. But it’s warmly received by all, plus coffee for me that’s not instant. At Home De Bear I’d tried a sachet that contained as much powder as I used to have of Nesquick in the mid-90’s, but was seemingly one third sugar, one third whitener and one third coffee. It was a sweet mess not to be repeated. 

Whilst we are eating, an American family from Northern California join the communal table, the by Kai (9) proudly announcing it's his mom’s birthday much to her embarrassment. These American teachers are 12 months into an 18 month odyssey. With 2 kids 12 + 9, they’re 3 years ahead of us, and of the travelling I’d say they were light years ahead - having been through South America, Philippines, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam. Thailand is merely a stepping stone to India and Nepal. Maybe next time we’ll be as confident and relaxed as them. 

When the 12 year won’t get out of bed despite them departing to Chiang Mai at midday, the birthday mum disappears whilst Kai instantly strikes up rapport with Sienna and Seb, leading to den and base building on the covered rooftop. 

We chat with the dad, Josh about some tips for Vietnam and our US road trip (Green River, Fire Valley, Grand Escalante - I think) and some of the decisions made travelling which can end up much at odds to what was planned from the unaware safety of home. School work is best done in the mornings, but that’s also the coolest part of the day, best for exploring. Flights booked in advance that later cause you to double back after learning new things / alterations / sights as you go. Or that a year would allow for down time and days doing nothing, but if you are only in every village, town or city for 3 or 4 days, down time can mean missing out on local adventures. 

After this brief crossing of paths - of which they say they’ve not had many family versions on their travels - we say farewell and walk out the hostel towards the Blue Temple. Sienna and Seb are generally good at walking, being familiar with the fact we, at home, ask can we walk there, if not can we cycle, if not, can we bus, before we get to the car. 

So we walked the 45 minutes over the main bridge to the entrance of the Blue Temple before grabbing lunch opposite the main gate. From the 15th century this temple is not - 100 years ago locals found some old remains - and some tigers - leading to the village name Rong Suea Ten or Dancing Tiger, but building work only started in 2005, finishing 10 years later. 

There's no getting away from it, the Blue Temple is indeed bright blue, but it’s still also draped in gold whilst its striking colour palette could upset traditionalists it's a refreshing change, if a bit overwhelming. And that’s before you get to the hundreds of skulls shaped in concrete on the gate. 

But the blue is enough for Sienna to declare it her favourite temple, or her least bad temple. Knowing when to push our luck (or not) we Grab taxi back to the hostel for a solid stint of schoolwork. 

Both the temple and the schoolwork were somewhat encouraged (definitely not bribed) with the promise to visit Cat and a Cup, a cat cafe mere moments from our home Bed Friends Poshtel. There's no entry fee as such, except for the overpriced drinks for which there must be one per person - no milking one juice between 4 people. The room is crowded with tourists and hot from the afternoon sun, but thankfully we realise - unlike most - there’s an air conditioned upstairs with a combination of prowling or sleepy or greedy or playful cats. Sienna is desperate for the cats to love her, and, after a mere 2 hours (...) they do; both kids playing softly with the feline furballs (furball bar one which was hairless). 

We finally extricate the kids, see the glowing clock tower and street lanterns gradually being flicked on before grabbing dinner from the Night Market - which contains 30 food stalls but only 5 different ones it seems - I’m sure many are even using the same menu. Just as we depart, some dancers who - if I’m being honest - are seemingly just going through the motions appear on a stage at one end, and we collect a couple of rotis for dessert to have at Bed Friends and snacks from Lotus Fresh mini-mart for tomorrow’s adventures.