28.03 Day 73 Mai Chau


Thursday 28th March - Mai Chau (Day 73)



We’re woken early by the sound of Sienna rushing to the bathroom. Unfortunately she’s caught or eaten something which leaves her fragile and bed bound for the day. Seb and I take our leave and both have pancakes for breakfast at our Green Homestay overlooking the rice fields an elderly couple working not far from us scything grass off the leaves apparently to feed their buffalo. 



Kate and I swap over, Kate also bringing some of Seb’s schoolwork to work on while I sit with Sienna. Seb will insist he can stay quiet in the room and play cards or get some iPad time if he’s allowed it, but we know he needs to burn off energy. So he and I take one of the bikes and cycle into Mai Chau proper - we’re staying in between a few of the very small villages or hamlets arching around Mai Chau - up a narrow alleyway to the base of one of the mountains. 


In between us and Di Tich Hong Chau cave are 1,200 stairs. I don’t tell Seb this number, but he’s already saying his tummy hurts. Unfortunately for him, his stomach aching is a ‘go to’ complaint when school work comes around, or when he doesn’t want to finish a meal. So, after paying 20k vnd to a lady who sprung up when we arrived, but might as well have been an opportunistic local, I enticed Seb up with an assortment of sweets. Suffice to say there is a lot of back and forth as we make our way up, with multiple stops. 


But finally we reach the top, marked by a large tree and step down into the immediately cool air of the cave. We’re the only ones here. It’s as if the rock has broken free of the mountain leaving a tissue in which stalactites have begun their very slow journey down, to be met by the even slower growing stalactites. There are rough steps down deeper into darkness but we leave them for more heady souls. Just as we leave the cave Seb, to prove a point is sick. 


In hindsight I believe it was the pool water which both kids are liable to consume whilst larking about. Thankfully Seb does possess great bounce-back-ability so descending the stairs is a breeze and we cycle back to Green Homestay. Whilst we were out Sienna had just about turned a corner, but Seb now picks up her mantle. 

At the same time we need to move, thankfully only 200 metres to Little Mai Chau Homestay. Even though it’s close we ferry the kids on the bicycles before Kate balances the suitcases on the pannier to carry them around (lighter than the kids at least). Our large clean fresh room glimpses down over the pool and also to the rice fields. Sienna stays in the cool of the room recuperating whilst Seb is back raring to go so spends time in the pool. If you’re not inclined to drink swimming pool water it’s probably one of the nicest set ups we’ve had (Kate and I swam in it fine and other guests too). 


With the kids not wanting to eat much and willing to go to bed early (they must feel sick), Kate and I join the nightly communal dinner at Little Mai Chau. One long table for the 20 or so guests who chose to join and share spring rolls, tofu, breaded fish, pork patties, morning glory and rice. An eclectic group in terms of age, nationality and type of travel - from a retired Melbourne couple spending 2 months in Cambodia and Vietnam because they live on the 7th floor of a block of flats and the lift is out of action for 2 months whilst being worked on, to the 18 year old American finding her feet, to the 23 year old Israeli travelling for 6 months, to 30 something Belgium scientists on a 2 weeks break and more. And all here crossing paths for just one night.