02.03 Day 47 Hoi An
Saturday 2nd March - Hoi An (Day 47)
With rain on the forecast at 40-60% likelihood for every hour of the day we decide to take our chances and borrow two bikes from our accommodation - Truc Loc Villas (printed on the front of our bicycle baskets in case we abandon them), wrapping a towel on the pannier rack of each for the kids to sit on and find some Banh Mi’s as we head East out of Hoi An.
Back through the rice fields. I’m sure some of the water buffalo have not moved more than 50 feet since we were here 72 hours ago. Our end point, via a very indirect (on purpose) route is Ba Nam Garden again through the rice fields.
If it were just Kate and I, I’m not sure how memorable we would be to the locals, but adding Sienna and Seb gives us a point of difference and so it is we’re welcomed back to the calm manicured front garden space they’ve created, receiving tea and biscuits to go with the actual drinks we order.
Kate was keen to come back also to buy a few handmade fabric items which are made in the open lounge by locals, the fabric off-cuts given to them by tailors in town. Sienna is keen to see their dog again too who obediently stands for pats and strokes from both kids (and me).
Having already seen buffalo in seemingly the same spot we go via a path between a graveyard and rice field and sure enough stumble upon the old lady who was here three days ago with her 7 year old prized possession of a buffalo. Like last time, after some pats she motions to ask if the kids would like to get on, this time Seb is prepared and more confident so we chuck him and also Sienna on the back.
The buffalo with sparse wiry hair barely seems to register their weight and continues to search for grass. I’m no buffalo expert, but he looks strong, ready to heave that plough when the time comes to get the rice out of the ground.
After a pit stop back at Truc Loc, we head south-west over a narrow, noisy metal bridge to a floating restaurant I’d spotted on a recce yesterday afternoon - Ben Xua. This rustic restaurant is seemingly made entirely from bamboo and straw - at one point, the only other customer asks us if he can have a cigarette because of the kids in close proximity - I respond I’m more worried about him setting us all on fire on the tinder base. He smiles and lights up.
The hanging baskets, water based venue is still the same price if not cheaper than in town, the food is tasty and the kids are happy to sit cross legged in one of the smaller huts loosely attached to the main “building” - Kate and I preferring the comfort of actual chairs.
Thankfully the rain has abstained and so after the 10 minute cycle ride home the kids are back in the pool whilst we write this and plan ahead - at any given point we usually know where we’ll be sleeping for the next 2 or 3 nights but not further than that - in some respect giving us the flexibility but on the downside meaning I’m regularly online looking for the next place to stay
(note from Kate as I am typing out Matt’s handwritten journal - Matt enjoys to research and there is no need for two people to research - he doesn’t take my suggestions without researching again himself)
(note from Matt as I’m proofreading Kate’s typing, she needs to work on her researching).
Dinner is a 5 minute walk away on the mainland, again at the front of someone’s house, with just four tables. There’s been a lot of pork on this trip for all meals of the day so I am finding I’m inclined to have vegetarian from time to time, like dinner tonight or in my Banh Mi’s - the one I had breakfast from today was called ‘Happy Cow’.
We find ice-cream for dessert at Ori Ice-Cream, another front-of-a-home venue with kids visibly sleeping in a hammock in the lounge, the owner keen to chat about our travels as he is a former mini-bus tour driver. When he asks the kids their age which they answer holding up the number of fingers - the 6 for Seb, one hand and one thumb - he appears to explain we shouldn’t use the thumb for numbers 1-4. Not sure if it’s just the way locals do it or if Seb has been insulting people each time he’s answered this common question - perhaps we should find out.
We stroll in the dark up and over the bridge, able to see the lantern boats plying their short-ferry-ride trade as they do every night - it still looks picturesque though. Tomorrow we’ll leave this ancient town behind.