09.03 Day 54 Hue
Saturday 9th March - Hue (Day 54)
The breakfast awaiting us is similar to one we’d created ourselves in our last accommodation; a pile of fresh rolls, unsalted butter, strawberry jam, yoghurt and mango. But adds dragonfruit and filter coffee and an offer from Jean for cooked eggs which we turn down as we sit next to the elongated pond complete with small bridge at the waist.
Playing with the pond is 4 year old named Covid by the other kids who was born here during lockdowns. He’s confident and strong willed seemingly never without a stick, or fishing net or broom or length of piping. Our kids follow his example though thankfully happy to scoop recently fallen leaves and not fish out of the pond.
When we say to Jean we’d like to borrow two of the bikes to cycle around he instantly says “Come, I’ll show you which road to take”. We wheel two bikes out front and I assume he and I will cycle 100 metres for him to point down a side road. Instead he takes me on a 20 minute loop along quiet roads, pointing out elaborate tombs and through a couple of small villages looping through a giant graveyard with larger than life graves speckled with animal carvings and bright colours.
He’s keen to point things out and explain local ways - I admire his passion for not only his children - they all call him Papa - but also local life. His day starts at 4:30am everyday to go to the local market for the days supplies where he gets 10 minutes peace to eat his own breakfast. The rest of the day he’s on the go, but always keen to stop and talk with all the guests. We ask about extending an extra night, but ‘desole’ they are fully booked, testament to his strong reputation he’s developed here.
Once we 4 get on the road, the kids again sitting on the panniers at the back of our two bikes, we receive more waves and shouts of Hello than ever before. We’re only 4 kms from the citadel but this does seem the road less travelled. In my role as recently taught tour guide I point out the unusual metal long boats in one stretch of the river - unusual as they’re upcycled from pieces of American aircraft.
At a local market the mostly female stallholders shout out to each other something along the lines of look at the children. The more emboldened try to squeeze their arms or shoulders - the kids are now attuned and wave, smile and say hi. Out the front an old lady where Sienna towers over beckons for the kids to stroke two large disgruntled chickens shes clasping by their feet. At the same time another lady is, in turn, stroking Sienna’s hair. Just another day in rural Vietnam.
Further along the river we stop at a cafe for drinks before doubling back and veering over a bridge to a large pagoda. Jean assured me they’re never closed so we push open the closed gate and walk in to admire the impressive structure sitting amongst more rice fields.
On the main road back to our village we also stop at the Temple of Literature which has an imposing facade but a plain series of gravestones - but noticeably, each of the gravestones sit atop a concrete tortoise three feet long as a sign of respect to the strength and longevity of the scholars talents.
Back through our nearest village we get four egg banh mi’s (10k each, 65 cents) to eat back at Tam Tinh Vien. After more badminton against Hue we sit by the river to play cards and are joined by Elong and Suri (a perpetual cheeky cheat). During a brief rest for the kids (watching shows on the iPad, Kate typing up this), I cycle back to the village to source a shave. The barber I find is going at a customer's face with just a blade, but thankfully I spy some clippers to clean up my blossoming beard for 20k ($1.60).
By dinner time Seb is playing tag with more of the kids and this is exactly what we had hoped for when booking this place. The children have stilting English but language is no barrier for kids to play. That includes me - on the receiving end of running commentary from Hue as we continue badminton battles. It is also nice to feel like we are contributing just a little bit by buying food and drinks from roadside vendors rather than in branded convenience stores. This includes the purchase of 5 shuttlecocks as the one the kids have is pretty threadbare. Dinner is again simple, but tasty - fish fillet with rice.