17.11 - Day 307 - Delphi to Kalamos, GRE
Sunday 17th November - Delphi to Kalamos, Greece (Day 307)
Thankfully no very early risings despite the kids' excitement last night, though once Sienna, Seb and Max are up, they’re studiously rebuilding the train set that was packed away overnight.
A nice slow start then before long we’re saying farewell to Delphic Horizons and driving over to the flag bearer of Delphi’s attractions - the archaeological site, just a few minutes drive away.
It’s mildly busy as we enter what was once the centre of the world - declared by Zeus sending two golden eagles out in opposite directions from heaven, and where they met he dropped a stone - which is now Delphi.
There’s plenty of ruins here and Chris does a great job relaying his knowledge on mythology and history to bring it to life for Sienna and Seb (and Kate and I). Up past the two and a half thousand year old treasuries to store the money and treasures from those seeking the Oracle.
She would smell the flames of the rotting python that Zeus had slain and thrown in a deep deep crevasse. Or she and each subsequent Oracle was poisoned by fumes from polluted fires lit below the temple by those in charge.
An intact amphitheatre and stadium sit at the top of the site and marks our turnaround spot in this fascinating location.
Not pushing our luck we skip the museum and head out in the cars through the upmarket ski town of Arachova, picking up baked goods which we eat 20 minutes away at the Monastery of Hosias Loukas (Saint Luke).
The narrow road takes us up through blackened trees and olive stumps. Our lunch in the courtyard is under a charred tree too, showing how close the fires got to this 1,100 year old Monastery - the risk of having those beautiful valley views the rest of the time.
As we walk through the Monastery itself, Sienna and Seb (more Sienna) listen intently to Chris’ tour guiding and general ad-libbing on Greek history (with some fact checking by Annita). It has almost a Game of Thrones feel to the stone buildings in the sun.
Driving back homewards, south-eastwards in convoy we stop briefly at a play park - briefly because as soon as we arrive the sun drops beneath the tree line and it gets decidedly chilly.
Here then we say farewell to Chris, Annita and Max - once again, not only has it been great to catch up with friends and learn about the different paths we’ve trodden since university, but it’s also given a focal point to the trip; Greece might not have been on the agenda if these guys didn’t live here and we certainly wouldn’t have visited Evia or Mani without Chris’ recommendations.
It’s an hour and three quarters drive to the small town of Kalamos, plucked out of the air because I’d spotted an accommodation with a 9.9 score. Our house, Kalamos Plaza is right in the centre facing the small church which sits effectively on a roundabout about which several bars and shops are placed.
Like Delphi, it’s the non-English speaking parents of the owner who show us around - including homegrown mandarins and pomegranates and homemade cake.
We find dinner across the road - google translate helping - and the lamb and chicken skewers are a tasty final dinner in Greece. There’s a bustle in the bars because Greece are playing Finland, running out 3-0 winners.